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Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy

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Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy
Tue Sep 11, 2018 4:20 am
  • In the past few weeks I've finally got my 1:10 scale RC nitro monster truck up and running, after it languished in an unfinished state for over 10 years! I owe much thanks to fellow .Netter VB Hawk, who has given me a lot of much-needed expert advice. I still had to get some help from my local RC hobby shop (an excellent place), as I managed to stuff up the carburettor settings while breaking-in the engine.

    Now it is (or was, until last Sunday) running brilliantly on "normal" 16% nitromethane-containing fuel. I've managed to do something bad to the front differential, but have not yet begun to dig into the model's guts to see what damage I've wrought.

    A fairly major piece of 'surgery' for someone like me who is not very mechanically-minded, but I've realised the obvious now - if I'm going to run an RC model, I've simply got to learn all about taking it apart, diagnosing and fixing it. The differentials are not exactly easy to access and pull apart. I'm hoping something has just come "adrift" inside, but fear I've committed metallic murder to it. Whether such parts are at all "generic" or absolutely product-specific I don't yet know. The manufacturer, Thunder Tiger, is defunct, so I probably have to rapidly get Ebay-literate soon, as well!

    Well, I must be positive, and look on all the learning as a GOOD thing...

    OH, my local Australian Rules football team, who won the Premiership the past two years, got eliminated from the finals earlier last Sunday, so it wasn't a great day! Then of course we (Seahawks) also lost at Denver (Monday morning here), but I still agree rather more with the positives than the negatives on the main forum.

    GO SEAHAWKS next week, and YAYYY - it will be on TV here, being MNF. Don't get two consecutive Seattle games telecast here very often.
    Last edited by Aussie Seahawk on Thu Sep 27, 2018 3:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
    Aussie Seahawk
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  • What leads you to believe the diff in your RC car is jacked up? I have a fair bit of experience working on 1/8th scale nitro and electric buggies, truggies, and short course trucks, so I might be able to steer you in the right direction.
    Feel free to contact me if you need legal assistance. I have a great lawyer that helped me with an ex who violated my privacy and kept harassing me on MySpace and Facebook. He's very good. And there is legal precedent. - linuxpro

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    SmokinHawk
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  • SmokinHawk wrote:What leads you to believe the diff in your RC car is jacked up? I have a fair bit of experience working on 1/8th scale nitro and electric buggies, truggies, and short course trucks, so I might be able to steer you in the right direction.


    Thank you so much, and I like the steering pun! :D

    All I know is that if I turn one front wheel by hand, the other front wheel no longer moves in the opposite direction. The rear wheels are still fine, in this way. The drive shafts from the central transmission to the front and rear diffs turn OK as well, but only the rear wheels turn when I try to run the truck. The drive shafts to the rear wheels still turn OK, but the driveshafts to the front wheels don't turn at all.

    The front wheels feel extremely "free to turn" by hand (as though something is broken, or at least disconnected) and there is no 'communication" to the rear wheels when I turn the front wheels by hand, or vice-versa.

    Faultily or not, this is my suspicion the front differential has a problem. Please feel utterly free to tell me I'm wrong, if so, and why!

    Thank you again, fellow Seahawker!
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  • Hey Charles, just check the grub screws on the outputs that connect the middle gear to the front diff. If one of them has backed off it will do what your describing (and wheel nuts). I don't think it will be anything major.

    Sorry I didn't get to your last message, I look after 13 junior cricket teams and the season is about to get going (lots of work).
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  • VB Hawk/Peter, no sorries EVER needed, please! I shall check out your suggestion tomorrow, before attempting any major dismantling to examine inside the front diff - what you say makes sense (of course), and Occam's Razor is so often correct. Will let you know when I've fixed whatever turns out to be wrong.

    I hope your cricket teams do well and the kids have fun (people like you are such cornerstones of junior sport, which has never been more important); your hectic life is precisely why I posted here, instead of PMing you again! Thanks again so very much. I definitely want to buy you some VBs next time I'm in Melbourne. :D
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  • Aussie Seahawk wrote:I definitely want to buy you some VBs next time I'm in Melbourne. :D


    "VBs" = Vegemite Burgers?
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Re: Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy
Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:05 am
  • GeekHawk wrote:
    Aussie Seahawk wrote:I definitely want to buy you some VBs next time I'm in Melbourne. :D


    "VBs" = Vegemite Burgers?


    Probably and that stuff sucks, have you ever tried it?

    Anyone that likes that stuff has to be from another place & time.

    :{)
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  • GeekHawk wrote:
    Aussie Seahawk wrote:I definitely want to buy you some VBs next time I'm in Melbourne. :D


    "VBs" = Vegemite Burgers?


    Quoting PMedic too... VB is a beer called Victoria Bitter, brewed in Melbourne, Victoria. I just assume VB Hawk meant this, anyway! It's a very mainstream beer, brewed by Carlton & United Brewery.

    I do not touch Vegemite, under any circumstances!
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  • Vegemite is the shizz.

    And VB is the beer Boonie drinks.

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    VB Hawk
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  • Good luck with your truck my fellow RC friend! The hobby (regardless of type of vehicle) has its highs and lows.

    Not unlike being a 12! LOL
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    Aros
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  • Aussie Seahawk wrote:
    SmokinHawk wrote:What leads you to believe the diff in your RC car is jacked up? I have a fair bit of experience working on 1/8th scale nitro and electric buggies, truggies, and short course trucks, so I might be able to steer you in the right direction.


    Thank you so much, and I like the steering pun! :D

    All I know is that if I turn one front wheel by hand, the other front wheel no longer moves in the opposite direction. The rear wheels are still fine, in this way. The drive shafts from the central transmission to the front and rear diffs turn OK as well, but only the rear wheels turn when I try to run the truck. The drive shafts to the rear wheels still turn OK, but the driveshafts to the front wheels don't turn at all.

    The front wheels feel extremely "free to turn" by hand (as though something is broken, or at least disconnected) and there is no 'communication" to the rear wheels when I turn the front wheels by hand, or vice-versa.

    Faultily or not, this is my suspicion the front differential has a problem. Please feel utterly free to tell me I'm wrong, if so, and why!

    Thank you again, fellow Seahawker!


    When you turn one of the front wheels, does the other turn with it, or not at all?

    Definitely sounds like either the diff snapped somehow, though they tend to be very durable, or the pinion snapped off of the drive shaft.
    Feel free to contact me if you need legal assistance. I have a great lawyer that helped me with an ex who violated my privacy and kept harassing me on MySpace and Facebook. He's very good. And there is legal precedent. - linuxpro

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  • Aros wrote:Good luck with your truck my fellow RC friend! The hobby (regardless of type of vehicle) has its highs and lows.

    Not unlike being a 12! LOL


    That it does. A few years back I had an Associated RC8.2e that I'd built for 100mph+ speed passes. It hit the beveled concrete edge of a manhole and proceeded to do a 100mph uncontrolled cartwheel. The aluminum chassis, motor, battery, and ESC were pretty much the only things that survived.
    Feel free to contact me if you need legal assistance. I have a great lawyer that helped me with an ex who violated my privacy and kept harassing me on MySpace and Facebook. He's very good. And there is legal precedent. - linuxpro

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  • Thanks for the replies, Aros and SmokingHawk. I've got a few domestic jobbies to do, then later this arvo I'll get into the front diff of my RC truck. When I turn one front wheel, the other wheel does nothing. The drive shaft between the central transmission and the front diff turns fine, and the diff's outside coupling to the shaft also turns, so grub screw is still intact (which would have been far simpler, if not!)... thus, the thahu must be something inside the front diff.

    I'll report back later. As my dear mum would have said, it will be educational for me!
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Re: Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy
Sun Sep 16, 2018 12:51 am
  • Well, my nitro RC truck has had the Royal Richard. It's a bit like the dead parrot in the Monty Python sketch. :x

    I separated the front differential from the model, but before pulling the actual diff housing apart, I found that one grub screw had in fact come loose, connecting the drive shaft of one of the front wheels to the diff. So, I figured that was the only problem, put Loctite on it and refastened it, put it back together again, and started it up, but the front wheels still don't turn, so it was a coincidence the grub screw had ALSO come loose. PLUS the rear wheels were not turning smoothly - they were incredibly "juddery"/wobbly.

    It seemed to me (wrongly, obviously) that the front diff was OK - everything "seemed" to turn as it should, when it was separated from all the other components. I then ALSO noticed washers were about to come off where the clutch bell is joined to the crankshaft; I'm not yet sure if it is one or two, as the remains are totally shredded. Without these "packing" washers, the clutch is loose against the crown wheel.

    At this stage I gave up, and took the model to the local hobby shop, but they can't help me, because it is made by (defunct) Thunder Tiger, and they said there was no way they can get any parts. They did say I should still pull the front diff apart totally, in case something's simply adrift without actually being broken in there, which I'll do tomorrow. Then they pointed out the rear diff feels "wrong" too - which probably explains why the rear wheels are so wobbly now.

    People must be thinking if I’m so ignorant about mechanics, why did I get an RC model in the first place? Well, I can’t answer that! I got seduced by the local Newsagent flogging the weekly parts which made up the model. For now, today, I’m fed up with it. I’ve locked it in the garage and I don’t want to see it until tomorrow!!! :?
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  • Well, I finally found the problem with my nitro RC truck - the front diff was fine; as VB Hawk suggested, there were actually TWO grub screws slightly loose (one fastening the front half shaft to the front diff, and also one fastening one of the front wheels to the diff... but to turn MANUALLY, there was enough grip that it SEEMED to be rotating OK. However, under engine power, they were too loose to spin the wheels, which is why I got suckered into thinking the front diff was broken.

    So, I put it all back together after freshly Loctiting ALL the grub screws. Pulled clutch bell assembly off the crankshaft, found I'd only "lost" one washer (it had shredded almost totally), found a washer in my general collection of stuff which fitted, and put it all back together. Started truck up in back garden, and it ran perfectly. YAYYY!!! :D

    Rear diff also fine - I think the rear wheels were behaving strangely perhaps because of the problems with the front... but all that matters is it's fixed!

    Took it to a local carpark (where there is much more room), and the damned starter pull cord came out of its housing when I pulled it. :(

    Sigh - pulled starter housing apart, and the (still neatly coiled-up!) metal spring has actually broken, right at the end, at the bent bit which fits into the starter spool (and the broken bit is still sitting in its slot). So I will either have to try to make a new bend in the end of the spring manually with pliers, if possible, so it fits again, and re-coil it, etc, which I've read is a very, very tricky process, with shredded fingers (and temper) likely! Think I'll call the hobby shop tomorrow to see if I can get a new pull starter which fits, if they are sufficiently "generic" (ie, not unique to my particular truck).

    Lesson learned - pull with short pulls, not long ones! Clearly this is why I broke the spring and unknotted the pull rope.

    Aros, as you said... go RC, and you have to learn as you go! So, I may TRY to fix it before seeing if I can just get a new pull starter, and of course I will probably one day simply need a new rope, and have to learn to re-assemble it anyway.
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Re: Broke my RC truck
Tue Nov 27, 2018 1:35 am
  • I don't know if the correct etiquette here is to bump my own thread, as I've done, or start a new one, sorry(?)

    After fixing previous problems, including successfully fixing the broken starter pull mechanism, my Thunder Tiger SSK Nitro Monster Truck is stuffed, AGAIN. It barely moves, even with quite a bit of throttle. I took it to the local hobby shop, partly disassembled, at their suggestion, to sort out my problems once and for all. It took them no time to diagnose that my pinion gears are already horribly worn, and the crown wheels too, although not so badly. Thunder Tiger is long defunct, but I found some parts online.

    I’ve got spare differential parts in the post on the way to me, from a hobby shop in Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada. The postage cost is horrible, but the parts fairly cheap ($11 for each diff kit, which includes all internal diff parts, plus the external crown wheels and pinion gears; I bought all 4 kits they had left, as they are getting out of RC stuff). I’ve attached a photo of the kits below, with an arrow pointing to the pinion gear. There’s so much confusion in the naming of gears! I need to be absolutely clear; it is the EXTERNAL pinion gear I have the problems with; the one which connects at a right angle to the crown wheel! I do not know if the gears inside the diff are also worn, but of course will open them up and compare them with the new parts!

    Please, does anyone have any experience with these parts (any brand)? I originally filled the sealed-up differentials about half full of differential grease, as per the instructions, but I fear I maybe did not put nearly enough grease on the crown and pinion wheels, which of course are in the cavity formed between the lower differential carrier, and the chassis itself. I only put about half a teaspoon of grease in this cavity, even though it is much bigger than the sealed-up diff itself. This was not even mentioned in the instructions!

    What I’m actually hoping is my possible mistake here caused the rapid wear, and not a terrible lack of quality/hardness in the components! The truck has only been through about 1.5 litres of fuel so far, so the wear is ridiculous.

    Also, while waiting for the parts, I’m cleaning the truck. Common sense in general, except I’ve read the best way to clean the stubborn crud stuck to the exhaust pipe and manifold (and presumably INSIDE these too), is to soak them in anti-freeze, or also use a buffing/polishing wheel on my Dremel tool. Does anyone have any opinion here, please?

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    Aussie Seahawk
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  • Do you have access to fingernail polish remover? That is the stuff we clean off fingernail polish off our circuit cards. That is better than antifreeze. Antifreeze I think will leave a residue. So will alcohol but I would go with alcohol over antifreeze. Get a box of qtips or cotton swabs...and some acid brushes....those are metal handled brushes with some plastic like stuff like you would use as a paint brush. Rubbing alcohol will work as a start then the polish remover to finish with a cotton swab. Make sure you look to see there is no cotton left over as it will accumulate dust and ruin the work you just did. But it is better as a remover of dirt/dust/oil/grease. Just things off the top of my head.
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  • If using a dremel....go with a tiny wire wheel. ONLY ON THE METAL parts. They will shred the nylon and paper. By wheel I mean the following...

    https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Coated-Pe ... =wirewheel

    Need to make sure that your finger can move the wire mesh. It has to be light weight for the work you are doing. I have had very heavy material and it takes off a lot. Some day I shall show what I have done...and have to do again to my wood lathe.

    The idea is for the brush to do as little as possible but still do the job. Wire is hard so wear gloves when checking the tensile strength of the wheel. That is when testing the wheel wire stiffness.

    I dont know the internal goop you are removing, so I am going by my personal experience doing such with things I have dealt with in the past that have grease and oil that has caked into areas that are small and hard to access. Motors have this, radars have this, and engines have this.

    For only metal parts I have even used Carb Cleaner....Carbureator Cleaner with the spray straw. Just a thought.

    Cleaned a lot of baby carbs too. I want a small shed set up just for that purpose. I have a lot of them to clean. I have a lot of weed eaters that need work.
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  • Seahawkfan80 wrote:Do you have access to fingernail polish remover? That is the stuff we clean off fingernail polish off our circuit cards. That is better than antifreeze. Antifreeze I think will leave a residue. So will alcohol but I would go with alcohol over antifreeze. Get a box of qtips or cotton swabs...and some acid brushes....those are metal handled brushes with some plastic like stuff like you would use as a paint brush. Rubbing alcohol will work as a start then the polish remover to finish with a cotton swab. Make sure you look to see there is no cotton left over as it will accumulate dust and ruin the work you just did. But it is better as a remover of dirt/dust/oil/grease. Just things off the top of my head.


    Thank you so much for your (as usual) very helpful reply, Seahawkfan80. Yes, I can grab nail polish remover from my wife! I had to look up "acid brushes" but now I know what you mean, thanks (got hordes of qtips and swabs - what we call cotton buds and cotton balls). Am going to try this as soon as possible - will let you know!

    But I have to ask - why does fingernail polish get on circuit cards in the first place? :)
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  • Seahawkfan80 wrote:If using a dremel....go with a tiny wire wheel. ONLY ON THE METAL parts. They will shred the nylon and paper. By wheel I mean the following...

    https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Coated-Pe ... =wirewheel

    Need to make sure that your finger can move the wire mesh. It has to be light weight for the work you are doing. I have had very heavy material and it takes off a lot. Some day I shall show what I have done...and have to do again to my wood lathe.

    The idea is for the brush to do as little as possible but still do the job. Wire is hard so wear gloves when checking the tensile strength of the wheel. That is when testing the wheel wire stiffness.

    I dont know the internal goop you are removing, so I am going by my personal experience doing such with things I have dealt with in the past that have grease and oil that has caked into areas that are small and hard to access. Motors have this, radars have this, and engines have this.

    For only metal parts I have even used Carb Cleaner....Carbureator Cleaner with the spray straw. Just a thought.

    Cleaned a lot of baby carbs too. I want a small shed set up just for that purpose. I have a lot of them to clean. I have a lot of weed eaters that need work.


    I have one of those wheels for my Dremel tool, and can buy equivalent ones like you have shown above. Will indeed be very careful, and "test first in an inconspicuous place"... indeed ONLY on metal parts, and only when stubborn enough to need it.

    Probably I have little or no internal goop build-up inside exhaust, etc, yet - having run the truck so little. But I imagine one day it would be a good idea, when (hopefully) it is very well used! I know maintenance and repairs is part of it all with R/C, and indeed vital, but I'm so much looking forward to having fun driving it much more, and fiddling/spending money much less! :) Thanks again so much, Seahawkfan80!
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  • I don't know about fingernail polish on circuit boards, but if you need to glue something down on a circuit board (like a wire that's making a circuit path, or a component) it's common to use a drop of super glue. That stuff is soluble in acetone, which is the major ingredient in polish remover. I suppose people could use clear nail polish when doing a circuit board repair, as well. Something else that works well for getting the gunk off of metal parts is methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). It's similar to acetone, but evaporates less quickly. Don't use either one on plastic, though!


    Also, I was kidding about the vegemite burgers way up there is this thread...
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Re: Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy
Wed Nov 28, 2018 12:58 pm
  • Heck, I don't know why I didn't think of using nail polish remover on circuit boards to get rid of cyanoacrylate glue traces. Thanks, Patrick/GeekHawk! I had to look up the difference between acetone and methyl ethyl ketone - I had forgotten that acetone is simply dimethyl ketone. Loooong time since I studied organic chemistry nomenclature...
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  • Aussie Seahawk wrote:Heck, I don't know why I didn't think of using nail polish remover on circuit boards to get rid of cyanoacrylate glue traces. Thanks, Patrick/GeekHawk! I had to look up the difference between acetone and methyl ethyl ketone - I had forgotten that acetone is simply dimethyl ketone. Loooong time since I studied organic chemistry nomenclature...


    I knew it was acetone too. We used it A Bunch on radar circuit cards. I just did not know the easiest way to express it. I dont think I ever used MEK. I think we had another banned stuff. Alcohol was the next best thing to take mold off of radar sets.
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  • Toluene is another useful solvent for getting gunk off, but it has two big drawbacks - 1) It's apparently used in meth-making, so it's hard to get in quantity of a quart or more (and probably lands you on a cop watch list); 2) It absorbs through your skin (and the vapor through your lungs) and heads straight to your liver. Since I need my liver for bourbon, I'm loathe to waste it on toluene! Though toluene is pretty much the only thing that removes conformal coating (Humiseal) from avionics circuit boards, so I used it in my last job with much precautions.
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Re: Broke my RC truck, and lost the footy
Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:51 pm
  • GeekHawk wrote:Toluene is another useful solvent for getting gunk off, but it has two big drawbacks - 1) It's apparently used in meth-making, so it's hard to get in quantity of a quart or more (and probably lands you on a cop watch list); 2) It absorbs through your skin (and the vapor through your lungs) and heads straight to your liver. Since I need my liver for bourbon, I'm loathe to waste it on toluene! Though toluene is pretty much the only thing that removes conformal coating (Humiseal) from avionics circuit boards, so I used it in my last job with much precautions.


    Toluene is a dreadful toxin! Pity it's so damned useful! When I did neurobiology for 25 years, there were a lot of environmental toxins used in the lab, although mainly for fields I wasn't directly involved in. Osmium tetroxide (in electron microscopy), phosphorous pentoxide (microscopy), xylenes (same) - later replaced by DMSO (dimethylsulphoxide).

    Sorry, I digress! The funniest "solution" to cleaning a RC car exhaust I found was this gem:

    "DRANO, just don't leave it in there for too long.
    I once forgot a pipe in that was soaked in Drano for 4 weeks, not much left"
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